PR's Cinnamon Rolls: Batch 2
September 28, 2009 by The swedish meatballWow. I’m in shock; I can’t believe I got these almost entirely right on the second try. (Mess around with 100% whole wheat baking and you will understand the magnitude of my disbelief.) My suggested modifications for the cinnamon rolls as per my last post were bang-on. This batch was very tender all over, from the outermost coil to the delicious innards. Even the cream cheese came out creamier and smoother. Best of all, I didn’t feel like I was eating aira sensation common when consuming cinnamon rolls made from all purpose flour. I’ve seen the light, and I’m never turning back.
Here’s what I did:
- Use soft (aka pastry) white whole wheat flour in the starter. Use hard (aka bread) white whole wheat flour in the biga and final dough.
- Use more excess flour than you think you need. A telltale sign that you're getting the right amount of flour in the dough: the dough stuck to your hands will begin to pull off and attach to the dough ball. The dough will feel soft, maybe just slightly tacky, but be more difficult to stretch. You should imagine being able to roll out this dough without having it stick excessively to itself, the rolling pin, or your counter.
- Knead. Knead until you feel like grandma. Say, 30 minutes. Add the excess flour mostly near the end of kneading. NB: I wouldn't worry much about over-kneading; most of the information I've seen indicates it's impossible to over-knead whole wheat dough and very easy to under-knead it.
- When you're ready to roll out the dough, spray down the counter with a little oil and rub it over the entire surface. (The oil is not necessary if you're using a kneading surface with texture, like wood.) Then dust the counter with bread flour. Overturn the container with the risen dough. Spread out and curl your fingers slightly, then jab the dough repeatedly with your fingertips to thoroughly degas the dough. Lightly flour the surface of the dough, then use a rolling pin to roll out a rectangle at least three-sixteenth of an inch (if not ¼ inch) thickness. Brush an egg wash over the entire exposed surface area. Spread the Splenda-cinnamon mixture over all but the very top of the rectangle; leave about ½ inch wide strip at the top. Roll up the rectangle starting from the bottom, moving left to right, then right to left, etc. When you finish rolling up the rectangle, the roll should have a seam; starting from one end of the roll, quickly jab your pointer finger at the seam edge and repeat all the way down to the other end of the roll. Cut the roll into 12 buns with your pastry scraper and place them in a pan rubbed with butter.
- PR doesn't specify, but use good quality Vietnamese cassia cinnamon.
- Bake for 10 minutes, then turn the pan 180° and bake another 10 minutes. The top should be lightly browned. Done. Pull it out. If you're not sure it's done, assume it is and test with a knife. This food is one you really don't want to overcook.
- Whip the cream cheese with a fork. Drizzle in the honey while stirring. When the mixture is smooth, stir in the vanilla extract until fully incorporated. Very slowly add nonfat milk while stirring until the glaze reaches the desired thickness. Whatever you do, don't toss all the ingredients in a bowl and only then start mixing; a glaze made so carelessly will be lumpy.


